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Painting in Oil with Gold Leaf

Posted on 4/22/2014 5:36:12 PM
By Kathryn Weisberg
50 Comments


 

History of art using gold leaf.  

 

2,000-year-old Hellenistic-style wall paintings have been revealed in Petra through the expertise of British conservation specialists. The paintings, in a cave complex, had been obscured by centuries of black soot, smoke, grease and graffiti.  The paintings are said to be exceptional in their sophistication, extensive palette and luxurious materials, including gold leaf. 

 

 

 

 

"Gold-ground" paintings, where the background of the figures was created in gold leaf, was introduced in mosaics in Early Christian art, and then used in icons and Western panel paintings until the late Middle Ages.  Extensive gold leaf appeared in religious panel paintings throughout the fifteenth century in most European regions including Germany, Spain, France and Italy.

 

 

 

 

Cimabue

Madonna enthroned with angels and prophets

Santa Trinita, Florence Italy

ca. 1280-1290

12’x7’

 


 

Madonna, Saint Thomas Aquinas, and Saint Paul, 

about 1330, Bernardo Daddi

Tempera and gold leaf on panel, 

47 1/2 x 22 in

 

 

Japanese screen paintings and kinpaku are some of the worlds most beautiful uses of gold leaf on a large scale.  

 

 

 

The Japanese even perfected the use of gold leaf to create thread for expensive clothing and tapestries.

 

 

 

 

Gilded paintings in modern times.

 

Contemporary painter, Austrian Symbolist Gustav Klimt created some of the most famous paintings employing the use of gold leaf in the beginning of the 20th Century. Klimt did a number of gilded paintings during his “Golden Period”. 

 

 

 The Kiss (Lovers), oil and gold leaf on canvas, 1908–1909. 

 

Perhaps the most interesting and mysterious uses of gold leaf in painting was done by Rembrandt. He would apply gold leaf to the surface of a sheet of copper and paint in oil on top of that surface. First covered with a grayish-white ground, consisting of white lead and chalk then, over the entire surface of the ground, a thick layer of gold leaf was applied, which is visible today at the edges of the painting and as glittering dots in areas that are thinly covered with paint.  Rembrandt’s gold leaf paintings show very little of the gold leaf in the final image. 

 

 

 

 

Commonly used contemporary technique.

 

Since pure gold is an element, not a compound or alloy, it can be compressed to nearly the atomic level without destroying its structure. This means it could literally be pounded in a layer so thin sunlight could pass through it. During ancient times, craftsmen would create gold leaf by placing a quantity of gold between two leather straps and pounding it by hand for weeks or months until it became exceptionally thin. It could then be applied to paintings, sculptures and other religious or royal items.

 

The modern method of creating gold leaf involves the use of metal rollers capable of compressing gold to a thickness of only 1/250,000th of an inch. The finished product can be cut into small sheets and sandwiched between layers of glassine paper, one of the few substances to which it will not adhere. 

 

The generally accepted (current practice) approach to the use of gold leaf in oil paintings begins with a highly prepared canvas. 

 

1.     Start by carefully planning your composition and applying an underpainting to ensure the edges of the coming gold leaf segments are properly placed.  Once the gold leaf is down there is little room for error.  Apply an acrylic base layer, or "bole," to a primed canvas. Use of a colored ground (yellow, red or black) are the most commonly used and each has a different effect to help make the final gold leaf application more luminous.  I do not use a colored ground, though that may change in the future as I experiment with this medium.  The gold leaf is more easily worked smooth on a fine weave of canvas with sanding between several layers of gesso. Alternatively you may choose to work on panel. 

 

2.    After the base color is completely dry, brush on adhesive, also known as "size." Apply the size on the precise area where you intend to position the leaf. Test the “tack” of the size by lightly touching it with the tip of your knuckle. If it sticks, to your skin it is ready for the leaf to be applied. The function of size differs in the process of gilding from its use in oil painting. In oil painting it is applied in an extremely diluted form to the surface of a support to reduce absorbency and make it more receptive to the application of a painting ground. Let it dry until it is tacky (usually about 30 minutes).  It has a milky quality when first applied and will be clear when tacky.  I have heard that the size will remain tacky for 24 hours.  I have not tested that.  Several adhesives are available for this purpose.  I like use Dux.

 

3.    Next, slowly peel back the glassine paper from the gold leaf. Placing a book of leaf in your hand, carefully fold back the protective paper to expose the gold leaf. Lay the leaf onto the sized area and 'roll' out the leaf. Hold it firmly yet carefully. Attach leaf to surface. Alternatively, use a cotton ball with a tiny bit of Vaseline on it to lift up the gold leaf and place it onto the tacky canvas. Some put talcum powder on the surrounding area.  I have not tried this technique. Sometimes little bits of gold leaf may stick onto areas that have just been painted. The talcum powder apparently keeps the gold from sticking to the paint. You can thoroughly wipe the gold powder off yet there is still some left, even though you may not see it.  I purchase “transfer” gold leaf and avoid the difficulty and aggravation of working with loose leaf.  It is much easier to place the leaf exactly where you want it and avoid the waste.

 

 

4.    Once the leaves are down, gently rub to burnish the leaf with a soft brush such as a squirrel mop to ensure complete adhesion. Any leaf laid over an un-sized surface, will lift away. Keep any bits of gold leaf that become excess or tear off to touch up areas that are missing leaf due to lack of sufficient sizing or from leafed areas that may have torn away during burnishing (called “holidays”).  Go slowly.  This is a delicate and temporal process.  Think of it as a meditation of sorts.  Just keep burnishing until the surface is burnished and sound. 

Following the application of gold leaf, complete your painting.  I have used a grisaille/glazing technique thus far.  That may also change in the future.  Some use a rag to “lift” transparent layers revealing the gold beneath.

 

 

5.    If the gold leaf is under 22 kt, or is synthetic, you may need to paint on an acrylic top coat.  I always shellac the surface of the gilded layer prior to painting or negative “lifting” of paint layers.  Shellac also comes in many brands.  It is best to mix your own using flaked, dryer shellac and denatured alcohol (2:5) as prepared shellac has a brief shelf life. 

 

Egret (Work in Progress)

 

6.    At the completion of the painting apply a coating of varnish as you would any fine oil painting. 

 

 

Contemporary artists using gold leaf in their paintings.

 

There are several wonderful contemporary artists using gold leaf in their paintings.  Here are just a few.  Fahamu Pecou, Fred Wessel, Brad Kunkle, Jackie Morris, Greg Dunn, Shannon Troxler, Kyosuke Tchinai, Wendi Heath O’Brien and my personal favorite, Makoto Fujimura.

 

 

Materials can be found online with a simple search: 

One retailer for the purchase of leaf products: LA Gold Leaf Wholesaler

 

Excellent and trusted source for technical guidance and products:

https://www.naturalpigments.com/gilding.html

 


Comments

50 Responses to Painting in Oil with Gold Leaf

A well researched article that has particular interest as I've recently started using gold leaf in some of my drawings.

I paint in oils over gold leaf. I use a method similar to Brad Kunkle but can find nothing on how his work is varnished. Specifically my problem is that if I varnish the figure in a gloss it shines and merges so much with the background leafing that the figure can really only be visually read from the front. If I do the figure in matt varnish then it is different from the rest of the painting and could look odd. Have you ever seen his or any of the others you mentioned in person to see what the final varnish looks like? Any advice?

Hi Carole. I asked Brad by email if he varnished his final works and he said he did. However, I didn't press him for details. He seems very approachable through his contact space on his website. If you get an answer and care to post it here for others to benefit from, feel free. I use either a diluted Soluvar or just spray the work with damar retouch varnish.

Thanks for your prompt reply! Check this out:
http://issuu.com/didimenendez/docs/osmarch2010

It looks like his paintings are uniformly varnished from the highlight of the one on the wall. I am thinking that a Satin varnish might be the right approach. Maybe I will ask him as you suggest. I have already been all over the net, checked out other artists and watched enough Youtube videos to totally confuse the issue!

Kathryn,
Brad answered me! Here is the content of our emails:
Hi Carole

I use a 50/50 mixture of Windsor Newton Gloss and Matte varnish. make sure to shake the matte really well until all the wax separates from bottom! Cheers, Brad

Brad, Thanks so much for answering me! I am very impressed that you were willing to share that information. I do that all the time but some artists do not.
I figured a soft low- gloss or satin sheen would be best, but how wonderful that you confirmed with your own experience! I have been working with leaf for years but mostly with acrylics. Now that I switched back to oils the final look needed more attention

Yeah Brad. We artists need to stick together.

I found your site researching information about gilding on canvas for a series of figurative oil paintings with gilded backgrounds that I'm planning. Thank you for posting this information about your process of guilding and also for providing links to artists who are using gold leaf.

The directions were very thourough but I feel intimidated. My interest is to put a thin line of gold leaf in my still life objects such as pots. Any suggestion on how to get the leaf that narrow or is their some other material that would be better?
Any help would be appreciated.

Write another comment . . .

Hi Deborah. There are a number of fine artists doing fine line work in gold leaf on their paintings. My guess is they are using a fine brush, gold leaf cement and a great deal of care. Try looking at the sites of illustrators rather than painters that use gold leaf. They are more likely to use fine lines. I have found most artists to be very approachable about their processes and materials.

I am in the process of gilding a large area on canvass....my bole was a water based
yellow and my sizing was also water based. In apply a second layer of leaf, I ran
into problems with leaf laying flat....so, as was recommended, I applied an oil
base sizing. The leafs went down flat beautifully in most areas, but in some were
rough...so I lightly sanded. It has been 8 hours and I don't know whether to con-
tinue with second layer of gold leaf by using the oil based sizing - or go back to
the water based sizing - or gesso the trouble areas, then bole, then size, then
leaf - in essense start from beginning on top of bad areas. HELP!

Karen, I would have to do the same research you would to answer this question. I've not gotten into that situation, so my feedback would be useless to you. Good luck and perhaps you will post your solution here so others can benefit!

Hi! Beautiful work! Wondering if I have to shellac before painting in oil on the gold, or can one paint directly onto the gold without negative effects? Thank you for your time.

Hi Kim. In my own case I painted directed on the applied gold leaf. You may want to ask other artists as well.

Excellent post.Thanks for sharing.

I did a very small landscape in oil . I used gold leaf at the bottom and came back with oil on top and a diluted oil with turp. on areas on the gold leaf.I did use black diluted oil and turp . as a base coat on the bottom where I applied the gold leaf. Now I would like to paint a large landscape with gold leaf . I think its cypress trees in water, not many branches or leaves. My problem is what color should I paint the under coat ? I thought of red ! but what color red ! and is red the color that i should use ? I don't have much knowledge on gold leaf , I guess you can tell! if anyone can help me I really would appreciate it. Need Help!!

Beautiful work and generous information-sharing. Thank you!

Barbara, I am just learning about gold leafing as well, and am finishing up a rather large piece....nothing like jumping in with both feet :) I read that if you paint any earth red under the gold it will do. Iron red oxide is suggested. I used some red in some places and then nothing in other and could see a difference. The placed I used red were richer looking. I used a combination of metallic foils, genuine silver leaf, genuine 23k gold leaf, genuine 12k gold leaf, and genuine copper. I did a LOT of reading and research; but found a lot of different suggestions. However, some were very important. If you are using genuine silver leaf, or gold leaf lower than 21k gold, you can not use a gold based size as it will turn the silver dark or black withing a couple of months, even if you seal it. It reacts with silver. Also, there is something in some acrylic paints (I think I read ammonia) that will also react with any metal leaf that is not genuine gold 21k or higher, and needs to be sealed to keep in from coming in contact with acrylic. Oil paints will not react with metal leaf from what I have found in my research. I called a few of the gilding companies for advice on sealers and shellacs. One recommended shellacs and another recommended Golden MSA Varnish. I opted to try the Golden MSA Varnish. It is a resin type varnish that can be used with just about any medium including oils. It has to be thinned down and is very toxic. So after reading above what Kunkle uses, I will be switching to his suggestion. My worry with shellacs is that it is not totally clear and can darken. There is a Zinsser brand that is called clear coat and is a dewaxed shellac that is suppose to be totally clear, but have not tried it. As far as the size I found works best on canvas so far is Aqua Size; but am looking for a better one because I felt like it was too thin, and I was not able to brush it on with the canvas upright without worrying about it running. The biggest thing I learned from this painting, is that regular primed canvas is too rough to gild and it look like gold; it will look more like gold paint. I wasted a bit of gold in the beginning stages. Since I already had the underpainting, I used a clear gloss gel and brushed it over the rest of the areas I was gilding and that made a big difference. It also allowed me to add some dimension where I wanted it before putting the metal leaf down. On my next painting with metal leaf (I am going to do several) I am going to make my canvas as smooth as I can get with primer and sanding. I will also be doing some on board, as that will be so much easier. Karen, I hope you got yours figured out, and will share. Thank you everyone; and especially thank you Kathryn.

Hi everyone,
I have done a couple of paintings using silver leaf, but am still trying to perfect the process. If I varnish the gilded area first, then apply oil paint... Can the paint be mixed with linseed oil, Neo megilp, turpentine, or any other medium?

Camille

Hi Camille. I think Gold is pretty inert. That said, I have seen some solvents dull it's surface.

Silver may prove to be less tolerate to solvents. I would research this before making assumptions. Also, depending on the varnish you use, the paint application on top of the varnish may be less archival.

I just completed a painting using silver foil leaf. I put a thin layer of shellac on the first layer (which may yellow) so that i could lay oil paint details over that layer , and a thin layer of acrylic medium over some secondary layering of the silver that had no oil painting on it. I don't mind if that first layer yellows slightly from shellac over time as it will create a more pronounced difference between the two overlapping silver layers which is what i intended. In the past I used real silver, forgot to isolate it in my haste, and noticed a slight tarnish developing. Real silver MUST have a layer to isolate it from the air or that will tarnish and i think that's so for the fake foils in gold and silver too. Mostly i use real gold to avoid those kinds of concerns. If the shellac yellows slightly over time so be it. It will just be more golden!

Thank you Kathryn

I tried the zinsser dewaxed shellac called clear coat and loved it! It will not yellow over time. I did a LOT of research on shellac and the older shellacs that have yellowed were of an inferior quality when companies where first making it and tiring to make it more cheaply.

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Hi! Does anyone know if you have to varnish Japanese Coloured Silver leaf? It already as a clear plastic coat on top of the real silver, so I am wondering if it needs anything else to protect it?
Jacquie

Kathryn-- Thank you so much for taking the time to organize all of this information in such detail. It is very helpful. I am curious whether there is a certain amount of time you should wait after applying the leaf, before applying the shellac-- I assume you'd want the size fully dry. Conversely, is there a timeframe to consider before the tarnish begins to happen? As in wait until the size is dry but make sure you varnish silver leaf within x amount of time?
Also-- I saw that Brad recommends a mixture of WandN glass and matt varnish. When I looked those up on WandN's website, they recommend waiting 6 to 12 months before applying matt varnish to a painting. ugh. I was wondering if anyone has had experience using Gamvar with a little cold wax medium mixed in to perhaps give the same result-- but with the convenience of being able to apply it much sooner.
Again, many thanks for collecting all of this info together in one place!

HELP! I am working on an 8'x8' acrylic painting that will be used as a photography backdrop. I will be adding imitation copper leafing to it and have no idea how to seal it so that the acrylics have a matte finish, the copper keeps its shine and doesn't tarnish, and it's very well-protected. Do I need to put a matte varnish over the acrylic paints, then add the copper leafing, then seal over that? If so, what products do I use? Do I need an isolation layer and where? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Great Information. Thank you for sharing

Very useful post!
I was wondering if anyone knows if all this works when working on paper too? I need to apply oil paint on gold leaf on paper, and am a bit concerned about using shellac there, as it might do some damage to the paper underneath? Or will the gold be enough to protect it? I have tried to look for information on this, but couldn't find anything... Any ideas would be very helpful!
Thanks,
Miguel

Very nice and informative article here. Thanks for the info, you made it easy to understand. Just look at the service http://pdf.ac/8fD3do. Its pretty easy to use. I think you can get a free trial if you ask for it.

Awesome art painting with oil and golden leaves.

Even much more of gustav's art painting are here: http://bit.ly/2cbPK25.

Gustav is very well known for the art paintings and I love his creation: the kiss.

Great tips! Very well written article, have taken many of these tips on board to create my beautiful website!
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I am going to glaze my finished painting with egg white. Apparently this lasts forever and is transparent.

I am experimenting on canvas with diy egg tempera, verdgris pigment ( made from suspending copper wire from redundant tv cable over wine vinegar in a sealed jar), oil paint and some gold leaf. The paintings are abstract and inspired by connecting the ancient with the modern - with an open mind as to how they will turn out ... Either I will be thrilled, or horrified to end up with a dog's breakfast!

Thank you for all your research and information. I have been using a water-based adhesive on top of acrylic paintings on panel. Now I would like to apply some silver leaf on top of oil. I assume I would need to use an oil-based adhesive to do that, but it is not readily available (aka not on Amazon for 2-day delivery). Any chance I could fudge this and use the water-based adhesive on top of oil paint?

Very impressive post.

I am new at using gold leaf. I want to paint a portion of an oil painting in gold leaf and wondered if I can paint on the gold leaf with oil paint or should I varnish it first and then paint on it? Also, should the gold leaf be done last on the painting? Thanks for the help.

Sketch out your painting first; and then put the gold leaf where you want it. If you are using genuine gold leaf; there is no need to varnish it. You can put the gold leaf on those areas last; but keep it mind that it may stick to places that you don't want it to stick to. Gold leaf is very delicate and just a breath can send bits of it floating around. If you use imitation gold leaf; or gold leaf less than 22k; it should be varnished.

Hi, This is a fascinating blog! I am a gold leaf gilder and teacher and it's wonderful to see so much exploration and creativity involving so many artists interested in using gold leaf with their paintings. I have a particular workshop that I've developed called Gold Leaf Gilding for Works of Art on Canvas, Paper, and Panels...a study for Fine Artists. I teach this one day workshop currently in New York, Seattle, and Kentucky if anyone is interested. It's been a joy to read everyone's posts and questions.

Hi Kathryn (and anyone else who may be able to help)!

My mum sadly passed away at Christmas. On her wall is a wonderful and fairly large portrait painting that I believe is oil on canvas with a couple of (kind of random) pieces of gold leaf. The painting is of my mum and her friend, was taken from a photo (looks amazingly similar) and was made about 40 years ago I think.

My mum once told me the name of the artist, but I can't remember the name - I remember it was a female artist (and I'm pretty sure British).

I could send a photo to you or anyone who might be able to identify the artist - I'd love to find out. There is some sort of signature, but I can't make it out at all.

Many Thanks!

Tom

I made shellac as you specified in your instructions. I just applied it over silver leaf so that I may go in with oil paint over the shellac . It turned all the silver leaf cloudy!! I am afraid I ruined my painting and all the silver leaf I applied. Do you know why this happened and what may be done to correct the problem?
thank you

Hello!!! I'm interested to use gold leafs in my oil paintings and I have some questions.... In background: can I use black acrylic paint, water based adhesive, stick the gold leafs,overpaint them with oil colors and then varnish them?
In the painting: After painting with oil color, should I wait to dry and then use oil based adhesive, stick the gold leafs and then varnish them?

I read in a comment above that I can mix 50/50 gloss and matte varnish, but I should shake the matte varnish first...Am I right??

Sorry for my questions, but I am new to thise technic and I have read so many articles, that I am confused....sorry for my english, I am from Greece!!

Thank you!!!

Ntina,
I have been playing around with gold leaf for several years now. I think to your first question the answer is yes. That sequence sounds correct to me. If I want to gold leaf over oil paint I would let it dry first. Then I made the homemade shellac as described on this site. I apply it to the oil painted areas I want to gold leaf over. It does first appear smoky on my painting but it does clear up. Then I let that dry, apply oil based adhesive and gold leaf.
I do use 50/50 varnish over the whole painting. I like gamblin gamvar varnish.

@sharon,
Thank you very much for the answer!!!

Yes, I agree with Sharon in response to your question about approaching the gilding with your painting. You can use the water based material which is likely acrylic emulsion that you're referring to. Oil size in many ways gives a better appearance although it depends upon the look you want. A traditional gold ground would be water gilded on a woond panel but you can get a nice ground with oil gilding, though not burnished . But if you wish to embellish oil painted relief sections you could technically apply the gold to wet oil paint if you want that effect or use shellac as Sharon mentions as an isolating coat if the oil paint is dry and then apply oil size or the emulsion. The cloudiness in shellac is called bloom which sometimes dries but not always; it's the alcohol absorbing moisture from the air. A hairdryer used cautiously can remove the bloom but may not be a good idea over your oil paint so be aware of that. Perhaps a mist of warm air. But if the bloom under the leaf it may not matter if it blooms or not. Yes, varnishing over is fine too.

This is such a great blog and loved reading the historical context of gilding and painting and where the two meet. As a gilder and instructor it was a pleasure to find such well thought out questions. The terminology in gilding can take a while to understand. Bole we associate with clay bole that is coated over gesso in water gilding, the gesso being a mixture of rabbit skin glue, calcium carbonate and water. This particular form of gesso allows us to fill the grain of wood such as for a painted panel and which allows us to burnish the gold to a brilliant surface. The water size we often hear of is an acrylic emulsion. It goes on similar to oil size but cleans up with soap and water; it remains open to gilding for a long time but never really cures like oil gilding and isn't self leveling like oil which is why you can often see the brush marks through the gold. Anyway, a lot of detail with gilding. And yes, Brad Kunkle does such beautiful work and a great guy. Also love the work of Fred Wessel who works with embellished water gilding such as gesso incision and punchwork. Thanks for the time you put into this site, very nice!

Loved reading all the articles/letters and am now even more confused than ever. I like to start my oil paintings with some thin acrylic, go over with Oil, so if I add gold leaf, exactly what size should I use? Also, I assume I would have to spray with an oil based varnish such as Damar retouch varnish. Am I correct in assuming that if I paint directly with oil onto gold leaf it would get messed up? When I burnish do I have to rub hard? Thanks for any/all answers to come.

I am glad to seek out numerous useful info here within the post, we want work out more techniques in this regard, thanks for sharing.
Contemporary Indian Artist

I have been working with gold leaf and acrylics. I am getting ready to begin working with oil. Looking forward to this.

I want to add gold stars and small jewellery designs to an oil painting already in progress, with the entire surface already blocked in. The canvas is very smooth — I used a chalk/oil ground similar to that used by Odd Nerdrum. My question is this: can I apply size straight over the dry oil paint (I have Wundasize) and then apply the gold leaf to that? Is it OK to put the size on the already painted oil background?


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